In general, seconda guerra mondiale white winter paint overcoats were applied con temporary paints o pastes. These overcoats were applied in various ways, using a spray gun, brush, broom, o rag, depending upon the resources of the vehicle’s crew. They were often applied on a dirty surface, e were subject to harsh weather conditions. Consequently, the temporary paints did not wear well, e soon began to rub off, revealing the original color of the vehicle, along con its dirt. Also, the white would mix con dirt causing it to turn a muddy color. In time, the winter painted tank would look quite motley con portions of the white worn o washed off, the underlying color revealed, e lots of dirt e streaky mud effects. It is very rewarding to duplicate this heavy weathering on a small armor model. It may sound difficult, but the effect is actually easy to achieve.
Tools ed Accessories
- Clear Gloss Varnish
- Clear Flat Varnish
- Acrylic o Enamel Paint
- Pastel Chalk
- Baking Soda
Start by painting the assembled model its primary base color. I use acrylic paints exclusively, but enamels should work as well, given the proper drying time between coats of paint. For this discussion, I will use my 1:72 ESCI Pz.Kpfw. IV as the example. I painted the model dark armor yellow e let it dry. With a brush, I glossed beneath where the decalcomanie go, applied the decalcomanie, e sealed them with another coat of gloss. Next, I mixed up some thin white water-colour paint, e sprayed 2 o 3 thin coats onto the model. You could also brush thin white acrylic o enamel as a substitute. At this point, have some fun e streak the water-colour con a wet paint brush, remove it here e there - beat it up a little bit. You want some base color to show through. Also remove paint from the decalcomanie, just wipe it away, keeping close to the edge of the decalcomanie. When dry, the resulting white coat will be uneven, thin, e not very good looking. That’s ok, we’ll fix it later.
Now, if you used the water-colour, seal it con a coat of gloss o semi-gloss spray to prevent further wash off. Next, mix up some thin black/brown water-colour o acrylic wash e spray o brush it all over the model. Do not drown the model in it, but rather apply an even coat overall. When dry, the wash will have concentrated in recesses, panel lines, around hatches etc., but also the overall color of the model has been darkened o dirtied up. Now you can begin blending it all together with a selective drybrushing of the base yellow color on most raised details, e on those areas that would receive a lot of wear.
The model at this point looks about 30% yellow, e 70% dirty white. Now do the same thing con white on the drybrush, but now hit the areas between the raised details- flat plates, torretta tops e sides, hatch tops, etc. You will get a brighter shade of white in an overall mottled pattern, con dirtier white surrounding it, e different shades of yellow nearby. The yellow e white drybrush steps may pickup some of the dark wash,if water-colour was used, e this will further break down the color e heighten the effect.
Lastly, if you wish, you may add an additional pure black wash by small brush to select details you really want to stand out. This super dark wash contrasts highly con the white drybrush layer, e really adds depth, although it goes beyond the confines of scale effect ed enters the realm of artistic liscence. But if you like it, ed it looks good, so much the better.
As to the wheels o trackwork, I like to make them a monotone dark earth color. The season is winter, e mud is going to be frozen rather than dried. You can make some easy mud by mixing baking soda, dark brown acrylic paint, e white glue. Spread it liberally on the lower portions of the model, on the wheels e trackwork. It will look a little dusty when dry, so overcoat it con a very thin mixture of clear gloss e black - just enough to make it look dark e moist, but not glossy.
At any point you may go back e repeat an earlier step. With my Pz.Kpfw. IV, I went through the whole process tre times, adding more color each time, until I achieved the look I wanted, which is a very dark shadow effect. If you happen to obscure the decalcomanie at some point, you can always prudentamente sand over them with very fine (600) sandpaper e water until the paint is removed e the decalcomanie revealed (This is a great reason to gloss seal the decalcomanie. The gloss provides a tough layer that allows harsh treatment such as sanding).
Lastly, if there are any glossy areas left, remove them con a matte overcoat, o pastel chalk dust. Almost all gloss should have been removed by the drybrush steps. Finally, you may sparingly add rust color to the muffler, tow cables, e fender edges. In fact, I would like to suggest that you use real rust. Scrape some off of an old garden tool, add a drop of water to the powder e brush it on. When dry, it looks almost real!
When complete, your model should look very attractive, high in contrast, rich in weathering, very realistic. This paint scheme tells a more complex story; it suggests both the extremes of climate e the harsh living conditions that the fighting men had to endure.
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