Squash Casting

1:72 Scale Modelling Techniques

There is a little-known technique for reproducing simple one-sided parts o molded on detail. It is called squash casting ed is a much more powerful modelling technique than it may initially appear. It’s great for reproducing multiple copies of a small part o when transferring detail from one kit to another without destroying the first kit. It works best for molded on detail o when a part is one-sided (hinges, hatches, ventilators, etc..), however, you could use this technique to produce due 1/2 molds to be joined together. The best part of the technique is that the reproductions are created in plastic!

Tools e Materials

• Epoxy Putty
• Plastic Sprue

Making the Mold

Mix up two-part epoxy putty e set it aside until it’s no longer sticky, but still pliable (approximately 20-30 minutes). I use Duro E-Poxy Ribbon, but other types of epoxy putty should work as well (e.g. Milliput, Zimm-it-Rite, etc.)

Roll the epoxy putty into a spherical o conical shape e hold it firmly between your index finger e thumb. Select the detail to be reproduced e squash the epoxy putty against it, creating a mold. Work it down well. Try to get a nice perpendicular angle of attack, otherwise you may distort the imprint. If the epoxy putty is no longer sticky, you may attempt to cautiously remove the epoxy putty in the reverse manner from which you originally squashed it against the detail. This creates a "negative" mold of the detail (figure 1). Often times, it’s easier to allow it to set-up overnight before removing.

I find that the combination of Duro E-Poxy putty, using an unwashed plastic kit (i.e. con a little bit of the leftover mold release residue from the manufacturer), ed allowing the epoxy putty to set-up over night before removal (when all of the stickiness has subsided e the epoxy putty is almost completamente hardened), seems to work best for me. Depending on the brand of epoxy putty that you use e how quickly you’d like to remove this epoxy putty mold, you may want to use a little bit of cooking spray o Vaseline (or almost any oily based substance) to prevent the epoxy putty from adhering to the detail when you try to remove it.

Using the Mold

When the mold is completamente hardened, hold plastic sprue near a candle until one end forms a gooey blob (figure 2), but make sure that you have adequate ventilation at this step. Quickly squash this blob into the mold e hold for a few seconds until the plastic has completamente hardened. Make sure that you use enough force to get the molten plastic into all areas of the mold. Remove the sprue from the mold e you will have a duplicate part contained on the sprue (figure 3).

You could deviate slightly at this step ed use other materials such as epoxy putty o resin in place of the sprue if you really wanted to.

Cleaning the Casting

Snip the sprue e remove excess plastic from the underside until you have the required thickness to the part (figure 4).

Trim around the part until all of the excess plastic has been removed (figure 5) e you will be left con a duplicate than can be attached to your model con conventional plastic cement. I find emory boards e moto-tools (such as the Dremel) to be invaluable for cleaning up these duplicates. (The article originally appeared in Tracklink, used con permission).

Gray Creager

Domande più frequenti

Per ulteriori informazioni, per favore contatta la redazione di Rivista Military Miniatures nel Miniatures Forum.

Ritorna alla Homepage

– Pubblicato: 13.06.1997 – Aggiornato: 05.06.2007
© 1997-2012 by IDL Software GmbH, Darmstadt, Germania. Tutti diritti reservati.